I wanted a saw capable of keeping cuts within tolerances of 0.004” (0.10 mm). So as I set the saw up I checked alignment and flatness at every step, aiming to have measured tolerances of 0.001” This may sound a little extreme to some, but I have tried to do fine work with a warped table and extensions before and will never waste my time and money like that again.

Here’s what I learned about Harvey's manufacturing tolerances and what it takes to properly set up the table saw.

First, check alignment of saw blade to miter slots. Do this BEFORE adding wings, fence or sliding table to the basic saw. (The manual says add the fence first, which would just make this critical step more difficult). Some adjustment was necessary and grub screws would have made adjustments a lot easier (this is a suggestion to Harvey). I used a vernier caliper, but checked later with a dial gauge with miter slot block and it was good.

Second, assemble wing(s) and fence rails. Check wings for flatness. (The table was flat within my tolerances). On the right side I was adding two cast iron stainless coated wings in addition to the stainless router table ( I ordered a EWN 8365 wing to replace the laminated panel provided with the 52Pro saw. Laminated pressboard panels are never flat enough - the supplied one was warped over 0.020” - and don’t stay flat in my experience).

Both metal wings were warped. The worst had a 0.010” (0.25mm) cup at the edge. After communicating with Harvey customer service and finding this was apparently normal and correctable I proceeded to straighten the wings. First I got some Grade 8 (metric 10.9) 5/16” (8mm) bolts and lock nuts (the all-metal Grade 8 Type) to replace the softer hardware provided. I assumed I would need to apply a lot of torque to prevent the warped pieces from sliding out of place once they were aligned, and also did not want nuts to vibrate loose.

To align the first extension wing with the 0.010” cup I aligned the front and back edges and tightened those bolts, and left the center bolt just snug. Then I used one of the metal t-shaped legs as a jack to push the cupped edge up, using the height adjustment in the foot (see photo). I was a little surprised that it provided enough pressure to bend the cast iron. Then tightened the bolt.

The next wing - the EWN 8365 - was warped in the other direction so I again aligned the front and back, tightened those bolts, then snugged up the middle bolt pretty tight. Then hit the crown in the middle of the edge with a rubber mallet to bend it down. Again I was surprised at the flexibility. I had to experiment a little with the proper tightness on the middle bolt to allow movement while still staying in place after the adjustment until I could do the final tightening.

I needed to shim the wing joints to get everything coplanar. The only way to do this accurately and permanently is with metal shims. Stainless steel shim assortments are inexpensive - available on Amazon. The last piece - the router table - was flat.

I checked flatness at every step with a straightedge and feeler gauges and kept all gaps under 0.0015” (0.04mm) at all measured points. Seven months later the table is still as flat as when I set it up. I doubt many saw owners assemble their saws with this much care. I’ve never seen this done or even mentioned in the YouTube unboxing videos. But it’s essential to unlock all of the potential of any saw and produce professional cuts. It’s also nice to have a huge reference surface in the shop that I know is dead flat by woodworking standards.

Some other notes:

The miter gauge is great, but since I have the Harvey sliding table I replaced the fence with a sacrificial block that is milled square. Run it through the blade and the edge is dead-on aligned. I can clamp small pieces to it. If I need to measure length I just use the Big-Eye scale and pull back the sliding part of the fence Euro-style to prevent pinch and kickback.

The finger hole of the riving knife and the blade guard have sharp edges and could easily slice your fingers. Filing the sharp edges smooth is a good safety measure (and should have been done at the factory). I also spent some time aligning the riving knife. With the knife and blade guard aligned just right I am able to use my 3/32” Forrester blades without having to switch to the Harvey thin riving knife, and can also still use the blade guard (though to tell the truth I usually leave it off unless I’m especially concerned with dust collection, like when cutting MDF).

Stainless coating is great! It is durable - surface scratches have not gone through the coating. I didn’t know that wind-blown rain along with some corrosive leaf litter would drop down from the roof vent right onto the saw and router table in my new shop space. I keep the saw covered when I’m away, but it has gotten wet, with no corrosion damage.

I’m writing separate reviews about the Big Eye Fence, Sliding Table a...

I was nervous about making such a large purchase on a product where the brand was new to me and I was not able to view it physically. The review in the various forums encouraged me to take a chance. Customer support was extremely helpful in coordinating with the freight company the logistics required to get it to my residential shop. The saw arrived on time and very well packaged. Assembly was very straight forward and I was making my first cut within the next few days. The quality of all the components has surpassed my expectations. I’m sold on Harvey.

I mounted the Shark S10 on my Delta 5hp unisaw with Router in extention wing. Fairly easy to mount. works well when if you don't try to fast feed the wood. Definently happy with the purchase.

This fence system is amazing. The fence stays in place when the lockdown is engaged. You don’t have to allow for the slight movement you get with other fences as you move the handle into the lock position. I was surprised how much I use the fine adjustment wheel and the stops. The stops are very handy if you have to change the fence position and then return to a previous spot. And there are four of them. The track on the top works perfectly for my Jessum guides. A couple of washers for shims and it works perfectly. I thought it was funny when I saw in Fine woodworking Magazine how they touted the breakthrough on the Sawstop introducing a fence that works in both a high and low position. It looks like Sawstop copied the Harvey fence. Easy to install too

Who knew that a zero clearance insert could be improved. All the ones I’ve used worked fine but they move slightly when placed in the throat of the saw. This causes the original cut in the plate to widen. Harvey’s plate has small nylon set screws on the sides. Once the plate is adjusted, it goes in tight and always in the same position. You can’t see the screws when looking on their website so I included a picture

This fence is extremely well built. It was accurate and required no adjustments for the alignment. I installed this fence on a SawStop Industrial model. I did have to drill all new holes as the SawStop's holes are at 22mm below the top surface and the Harvey fence needs it to be a minimum of 26mm. This was a small issue that require drilling holes in the table top accurately. It is very solid and moves freely. I am pleased as punch about this fence. For me it is well worth the money to get this accuracy. I could not notice any deflection with this fence. I look forward to years of fun ripping.

Was not wanting to pay up but so glad I did. This fence is amazingly accurate. Put it on a ridgid saw and it fit perfectly with very lil modification.

First of all, this machine is wonderfully powerful, very smooth, very high-quality in engineering and materials and has proved to be a fantastic addition to my shop. One minor thing is that there is a gauge inside the upper cabinet next to the wheel that shows the tension on the blade. There’s a pointer that moves up and down on a graphic scale. On my machine, it did not work at all. It was not even connected to the tension mechanism. I had to add a spring that pulled up on the pointer arm so that it kept contact with the elevation of the tension device. Now it works well. This was not even mentioned in the instruction booklet. There’s even a little window where you can see this pointer without opening the upper wheel housing. Very odd. Considering how completely well-thought-out this machine is, I wonder why that happened. I also added a work light that is wired to the main switch. Most LED work lights now are dual voltage. I simply ordered one with a strong magnetic base and a gooseneck and removed the plug at the end, stripped and tinned the wires, added heat shrink tubing to toughen the end of the wire and provide a strain relief, and then I opened the switch housing. With the wiring diagram, I found the two wires that output the switched power to the motor and loosened the screws, slid those tinned wire tips inside the terminal clamps and re-tightened the terminal clamps. Using a rat tail file I filed a small groove in the edge of the switch housing and anchored the strain relief on the cable there. I reassembled the switch housing and using magnetic hooks, routed the wire safely to the top of the machine. Now I have a good strong work light that turns on with the motor and turns off as well. This is something I think should have been included in the original design of the machine. It would be simple to add a work light to this machine. All in all, it’s a fantastic machine. The price was reasonable as well. One pro tip for mounting it to the Mobile base they also sell. I use the strips of cardboard under the edges of the machine base that I had previously rubbed with paraffin on their underside. This allowed me to remove the bolts, anchoring the machine to the pallet. It was delivered on and slide it relatively safely, controllably, and easily onto the Mobile base which I lashed to the pallet. This made it possible to transfer a 300+ pound machine onto the mobile pace safely single-handedly. There is no contact of the machine and the mobile base in the process either. It came out perfectly. I’ll include a photo

Setup wasnt very difficult, needed help putting the bolts through when mounting the table, delivery was insanley fast (within a week for me) no issues or complaints. Only suggestion I have is give options for different plugs (like twist lock nema 6-20L) from factory. This machine is very well thought out and gorgeous.

This was the perfect “wingman” for my SawStop!

I had no problem assembling and installing this myself without help. Make sure you get a couple shim stocks (I used .018 x 4 x 9 from Ace Hardware) so that the slide is above your table saw. It still took me several times to get it exact, so make it easy on yourself and get it right.

I have used this everyday and it has made shop life easier. My large panels are effortlessly crosscut with precision! No blade burn or accidental movement throughout the cut.

It is well designed and has an aesthetically appeal. I absolutely love my new Compass and the AH-3T hold down is larger than I expected and that’s a good thing. Harvey did it right!

My only complaint is that the manual doesn’t have any instructions on how to calibrate the flip stops accuracy with the scales. However, I came up with a fail safe way to calibrate it and the repeatability and precision has been maintained ever since.

The entire Harvey system is incredible. I recently added the router wing and fence to my HW110S and it’s better than anticipated. I’ve never used a router fence that’s so rigid, yet smooth moving. It actually keeps perpendicular to the table and has easy and efficient adjustability. Another excellent case of maximizing function and form from the Harvey folks.

This is thoughtfully designed and perfectly engineered. My first task with this was to put an 80" x 23" piece of 3/4" oak ply through the table saw to trim the end square. Once I got the piece locked onto the sliding table it was immovably secured and the cut was made flawlessly and effortlessly.

From the first time I saw this fence I knew I wanted one. It solved all of the issues I had with my old fence and more. The ball-bearing guides are smooth and make fine adjustments so much easier than the old tap,tap,tap...damn! tap,tap,tap...damn! method I used to have to use. Installation was easy and it fit perfect on my Laguna F3. I recommend watching the installation video from Harvey. Rails and fence are well made and feel like they will hold up for years. So far it is well worth the money.

Solid build.
Easy installation.
Only issue was missing nuts for M10 bolts. Not to worry, had some in my shop. Used a 5/8 inch aluminum bar stock shim to avoid having to cut any tubes on my SawStop ICS. Love it. Might be good to include the locking knob from the MG-36 pro miter gauge to secure at dead zero but that is style points.

I'm a 40+ yr commercial carpenter. First,the product. As you can see in the photo the RG-1 is an impressively engineered tool. The other one is for your do-it yourself neighbor.

Second,customer service. I just miss a sale price and email Harvey if they would honor the sale price or if they had any black Friday sales coming up. Mikey Thomas emails back and lowers the price even below the sale price. Great right ? It gets better! I get the product and the tee bar is a bit big for my shapers and table saws. I email Mikey and he says no problem, what size do I need as he will look around. I'm shocked he's doing this because plenty of places will tell you return it or machine it down yourself. If he even found one I'd fully expect to be charged for the tee bar and shipping, right ? Wrong! He finds one / makes one /who knows and sends it free of charge ! In this day and age who goes this sort of thing ? Not many .

Mikey Thomas Harvey Customer service 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟

Thanks so much for exceptional customer service!!! Sincerely G. Ryan, Minnesota

Ps give Mikey a raise !